Yes, I know “tripe” sounds iffy. At least it did to me for many years. My mother was a big fan and every time we went out for tapas in Madrid, she’d order “callos a la madrileńa” which I wouldn’t touch with a ten foot pole. Why now you may ask? Well, I happen to be in Porto a  city known for this dish. It’s even become part of its people’s identity as locals are called “tripeiros” because in the old days, they generously shipped their meat out to Portuguese sailors who were sent to fight in Africa in the XV century under the command of Henry the Navigator.  Locals were left only with by products and  tripe but ingeniously came up with this great stew that I had to try. It was the moment to overcome all that dread that my mother made so much fun of .  I had to do it, there was no way that I could come to Porto and not  give tripe a chance.

I was lucky enough to be guided by Raquel and her friend Rui who kindly led me to a great “tasca”  on rua das Taipas in the Cordoeiro neighborhood, close to the Jewish quarter. Tasca do Rei dos  Galos de Amarante, a family run  joint that has been in business for over 47 years.  Husband Dom Rodrigo and wife Dona Maria Rosa have been serving locals the best in homemade Porto cuisine for almost five decades, becoming a gathering point for  university professors and  students who swamped the place in the early 80’s.

Bits of  honeycomb tripe, a cow’s stomach lining – yes, that’s what it is – mixed with linguiça ( smoked sausage) and blood pudding in a white bean stew. Added to this is the delicious “salpicão” a  sausage that is a  mix of  beef and pork loin made with wine, garlic and paprika which  adds a whole lot of flavor to this dish. Usually served with a side of white rice, “tripas á moda do Porto” is hearty and meant to keep you satisfied for a long time.   I have to admit, it took me a few minutes to try it but once I got through the chewy part, I actually enjoyed it. With the help of a nice glass of vinho verde, I mustered the courage to finish it up and I have to say it was delicious. Overcome your fears like I did, give tripe a try! At least in Porto.

Tasca do Rei dos Galos de Amarante

Rua das Taipas 121

Porto,  Portugal

Tel: 222 057 297

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via Tasquinha do Oliveira – Évora, Portugal.

Step into a Portuguese dining room and venture into some old school specialties made with a modern twist. Nothing here is compromised, neither atmosphere nor flavor for every dish you’ll savor is an ingenious homage to the best in Portuguese cuisine.

Busy with businessmen and locals, this cheerful and quaint eatery fills with lively chatter as young waiters come and go wearing plaid shirts and jeans covered by long aprons ,echoes of the warm and casual ambience of “cantinho” which in Portuguese means “little corner”.

 This “little corner’’ of Lisbon belongs to Jose Avillez, a young chef who has become one of the most renowned in the country, a celebrity of sorts with his own television show and several published cookbooks, one of which shares some of Cantinho’s  best recipes  printed in  both Portuguese and English.

His creative approach combined with his passionate culinary spirit, come alive at Cantinho making it feel like a true farmhouse kitchen where anything you taste is bound to be fresh, delicious and certainly innovative.

 Beginning with the queijo Nisa no forno com presunto com mele de rosmarinho. A delectable serving of a rather firm raw sheep’s milk cheese curdled with thisle flower. It’s served with baked presunto (Portuguese cured ham) and a drizzle of rosemary honey. Although somewhat robust, the mellow sweetness of the honey creates a perfect balance that turns it into a light and pleasing starter. Another appetizer that stood out was the vieras marinadas com abacate, a delicate sea scallop ceviche served with a sprinkle of fried breadcrumbs over a portion of fresh guacamole.

Chef Jose Avillez owns several restaurants in Lisbon, all offering a different sampling of Portuguese cuisine influenced by his many travels. Some include what he’s mastered through his training at El Bulli with famous chef Ferran Adrià, known for his molecular gastronomy, a trend Avillez often showcases with great grace.

 A good  example is the lascas de bacalhau, migas soltas, ovo bt e azeitonas explosivas. Tender flakes of cod mixed with homemade toasted breadcrumbs lie under a low temperature soft boiled egg and “explosive” olives, a name given to the bursting of flavor they deliver as you bite into them. They’re submitted to a process know as “spherification” which enhances their flavor adding a  juicier yet subtle punch to the dish. I have tasted a lot of cod dishes in my life but nothing beats this one.

 Other entrées that take in some of Avillez’s travels are the torricado de leitão de Negrais com sabores asiáticos, a serving of Asian inspired bruschetta of suckling pig from nearby Negrais in Sintra and the tagine de cordeiro, couscous de legumes e molho de iogurte, tender lamb tagine with vegetable couscous and tangy yogurt sauce. Also offered is a the “Barrosã DOP” hamburger with caramelized onion and foie gras, a juicy burger made with grass fed beef from the Barrosä breed of cattle known for the tender and flavorful quality of its meat.

 Leite-creme de laranja e baunilha, a light crème brûlée made with orange and vanilla is a nice, not too sweet, touch to the end of a meal. For those who wish to finish with a taste of liquor, a homemade lemon sorbet made with fresh basil and a touch of vodka as in the sorvete de limão com manjericão e vodka makes for the perfect refreshing dessert with a kick. 

 Price Range:

Lunch: between 6 euros and 20 euros 

Dish of the day 10.50 euros

Cantinho do Avillez

+ 351 21 199 23 69

Rua dos Duques de Bragança, 7 1200-162 Lisboa

Opening hours:

Lunch: 12.30 – 15.00 (Monday – Saturday)

Dinner: 19.30 – 00.00 (Monday – Saturday) Closed on Sunday